Sorry to sound like a nanny on this, but you really should crack a text book and study the basics - how cutting speed works and how to calculate, how metal cuts and where and what the corresponding rake and clearance angles should be etc. incorrect tool geometry (do some searches, somewhere here I've posted pics and diagrams for fly cutters ), incorrect speed and maybe not enough rigidity in either machine and/or fly cutter set up. When your mill won't go so slow, a you can use carbide which will work at higher speeds. As a guess maybe the dia is 4 or 5 inches? means the mill should be going no more than 50-80 rpm. Cutting speed for hss and cast iron is say 80 feet per minute. For everything, drilling, milling, lathe etc. I would doubt that mill will go slow enough for a tool steel (which i assume means HSS) cutter. I lap cast iron dry, seems to work better for me.Īlso some close-up pics of your cutter would be helpful. Once you resolve that issue if you still don't have the surface you desire you may try lapping the part on a hard flat surface with some 600 grit wet/dry paper. I bet the cutter is taking a bit more on one edge than it is on the other. ![]() All the visible tooling marks go the same direction. Thanks everyoneLooks like your machine may be slightly out of tram. I fed the work into the cutter really slow and took only a very light cut. I have a RF 45 Clone that I ran on the next speed up from slowest. The end result is better but its still pretty average and I could certainly not charge for that kind of job. I ground it with a bit of an angle on the face. I was using a face mill but I have just started using my fly cutter and some 3/8 tool steel. Even if you didn't do that it would still work fine and is still a good purchase but cleaning up the edges a bit and adding fresh grease to the gear and working surfaces will get you a smoother working tool.I am new to machining and I have just started flycutting some cylinder heads for my mini. For the price you are getting a good tool.Like i said, I would definitely recommend this if you are willing to spend a bit of time cleaning, deburring and stoning it.I mean, it's not like it's a necessity though. I put a magnetic angle finder on the table top and rotated it each way to check the accuracy of the scale, and it was dead on!All in all I'm very happy with my purchase and very glad I got it. The surface finish on the table top is quite good too, aside from a very small divot, but it's tiny and will have no effect on the clamping accuracy.The rest of the working surfaces are quite good too.The worm gear on my table actually looks to be pretty high quality and well machined, aside from some sharp burrs that needed to be removed on the ends of the worm gear where the thread thins and tapers off.Flatness on the bottom of the table is also pretty good.Another thing I'm really happy about is that the angle scale is pretty much dead on accurate, visually I mean. 003" across the whole surface, which is more than adequate for my purposes since I will be using this to machine bevels on knife blades on my mini mill. I was pleasantly surprised at how flat the table top was, within about. It can be locked at any angle with the help of screws at each end.Īs long as you are willing do spend some time deburring and cleaning up, this is a good buy.As anybody that's bought inexpensive import tools like this are aware, the machining can be a bit rough and edges have not been cleaned up, leaving them with some pretty big burrs in some areas.But I'm actually very happy with this table for the price.
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